Intro
After several years of attempts, I finally got tickets for Les Vignes Buissonières en Pic Saint Loup this year. This event is a 6 km walking tour through vineyards under the Hortus cliffs while drinking sumptuous wine from Pic Saint Loup and eating amazing gourmet food. A taste of paradise complete with the requisite ambrosia. This was the 9th Edition and the first for which I was able to secure tickets. The event now lasts over a 2-day weekend with over 1500 participants and this year 1200 were turned away due to high demand. Once one has participated in one, it is quite obvious why folks are flocking to Valflaunès! My friend François and I headed to this miniature paradise and here is what we saw, ate and – most importantly – drank.
Here’s a typical view of Hortus and the vineyards:

For the record, the catering was provided by Laurent Faure of Le Délice des Princes (22, ave Charles de Gaulle 34690 Fabregues – delicedesprinces@wanadoo.fr – +33 4 67 85 02 82) and was outstanding.
The Path
We started out with a short walk from the parking lot, through an oak grove, across a first vineyard to the welcome tent where we received our “chapeau de paille” (straw hat), our forks and knives, our wine glass, and our guidebook for the day. It was 13h15 and the temperature was at least 35 or 36. A real scorcher! In any case, we set out thirstily for our “mise en bouche” and first wine selection.
A link on Trailguru to the track we followed: Caveat – the iPhone couldn’t deal with our excessive drinking and ran out of juice in the middle of the trail…http://www.trailguru.com/wiki/index.php/Track:71FN. Below is a photocopy of the page out of my tasting booklet showing the hike.

Mise en bouche – Appetizer
Sur un mirroir d’estragon, petits gris des vignes et petits pieds d’agneau en promenade, mousse de fenouil et fougasse à l’anis
Here we had a small plastic cup of snails and lamb with a fennel creme and anis-flavored loaf. It is delicate and delicious. I forgot to take a photo
but I do remember the wines we tried with this one. We tried 6 out of 8…
- Château Valcyre Benezech – 2008 Pic Saint Loup rosé. This was my favorite rosé of the day actually. Its color was particularly remarkable. Delicate to the palate and a raspberry or strawberry flavors with a background of oak casks (18 month aging process). 3/5
- Les Vignerons du Pic – 2008 Château d’Assas blanc. A dry, fruity white with a hint of vionnier grapes. 2/5
- Domaine Saint Daumary – 2007 Boca Loca blanc. I really enjoyed this more rounded white with hints of thyme and lots of sunshine. 3/5
- Les Coteaux du Pic – 2008 Sélection rosé. Unremarkable rosé. A bit acidic. 1/5
- Château de l’Euziere – 2008 Mon ami Pierrot rosé. Tasty and refreshing. 2/5
- Domaine Desvabres – 2007 Tradition rouge. A bit too tannic. 1/5
Entrée froide – Cold Starter
Une ligne de sardines marinées au banyuls, canapé de tomates au cerfeuil
A delicious bed of tomatoes and bread covered with sardines marinated in a banyuls wine sauce. Photo below.

We decided to go a little easier on the wine at this stop so that we didn’t tank too early. Tried 3 out of 12 wines.
- La Gravette – 2007 Gravette Vieilles Vignes blanc. Full-bodied and sweet white wine with a nice clear yellow color. 3/5
- Château Valcyre Gaffinel – 2008 Coup de soleil rosé. A nice if unexceptional rosé. 2/5
- Domaine Haut-Lirou – 2007 rosé. Ditto from the Coup de soleil – nice but unexceptional. 2/5
Entrée chaude – Hot Starter
La baudroie en bourride étagée, beurre rôti au lard et à la sauge
Here we were treated to lotte with a rich, scrumptuous creamy sauce with butter roasted with sage and bacon. Photo below. Tried 3 out of 12 wines.

Unfortunately, this is the last photo because the iPhone gave out at this particular point. Once again for the wine, we took it a little easy in anticipation of the onslaught of reds at the next step.
- Domaine Haut-Lirou – 2007 Mas des Costes rouge. An excellent red for grilled steaks and ribs. 4/5
- Château de Lascours – 2007 Charme blanc. My favorite white from the day – accolades from the folks that we shared out table with. Fruity and round with hints of herbes. 4/5
- Château Lascaux – 2005 Pierre d’argent blanc. Not particularly distinguished and a bit dry – probably in the shadow of the Lascours unfortunately for this wine. 2/5
Plat principal – Main course
Le pavé de quasi de veau, jus de citron confit, huile de basilic, tian d’aubergines au pélardon et basilic
Here we had a delicious slide of veal with stuffed lemon dressing, olive oil with basil and a purée of eggplant with basil. I don’t think I could begin to explain how delicious this was with the pinenuts. Yum yum! Tried 5 of the wines – there were 18 different ones!!
- Domaine Mirabel – 2007 Les éclats rouge. My favorite red (I had already visited this vineyard last year so I am perhaps not too objective here) of the day. Delicious if heady with lots of fruit flavor, full-body and an excellent continuity. 5/5
- Clos des Augustins – 2003 Les 2 Rogers rouge. Very curious unfiltered wine with the color of raspberry juice. Special and different. 3/5
- Mas de l’Oncle – 2006 Cuvée Jules rouge. Fruity with oak hints reminding me of some California Zinfandels. 3/5
- Château de Valflaunès – 2006 Tem Tem rouge. Nice, well-rounded red. 3/5
- Château Lascaux – 2005 Nobles Pierre rouge. If I hadn’t already a weakness for Mirabel’s amazing reds, this one would have been my favorite. Very round, complete and fruity wine. 4/5
Admittedly, getting more detail on each wine at this point became harder and harder, but we pressed on.
Fromage – Cheese
Pérail et tome de brebis
The cheese was two sheep cheeses – a soft one (pérail) and a hard one (tome) and was perhaps the least amazing of the six courses. Tried 1/2 of the wines:
- Domaine Devois du Claus – 2006 Pic Saint Loup rouge. Nice and rounded. 3/5
- Domaine de l’Hortus – 2006 Grand cuvée. Almost the perfect red – typical and delicious. 5/5
- Château de Lascours – 2005 L’Ambroise rouge. Not particularly remarkable but quite tasty. 3/5
- Château Vallon – 2006 Pic Saint Loup rouge. What was interesting here is that it was a young lady that runs this 2-year old vineyard. A great start. 3/5
- Mas Gourdou – 2006 Joseph Onésime rouge. Nice color and fruity, bold taste. 3/5
- Château de Cazeneuve – 2007 Coteaux du Languedoc blanc. Very, very heavy white – almost a desert wine at 14%. 3/5
Dessert
Domino de cerises, crémeux chocolat, sorbet griottes
We did (finally) get to the end – and survived – of the day with some nice deserts: a cherry cake, creamy chocolat pastry and a fantastic cherry sorbet. Since it was the last stop, I insisted on trying each of the wines this time…
- Château de Cazeneuve – 2006 Les Calcaires rouge. Fruity but no follow-through. 2/5
- Château Valcyre Benezech – 2007 Tradition rouge. A little dry. 2/5
- Les Grandes Costes – 2008 Musardises rosé. Round and fruity. 3/5
- Bergerie du Capucin – 2008 Dame Jeanne rouge. Acidic and sec. 2/5
- Les Coteaux du Pic – 2007 Sélection rouge. Flat. 1/5
- Domaine Chazalon – 2007 Altitude 658 rouge. 70% syrah. Not bad but quite young. 2/5
- Mas de Fournel – 2008 Rosée du matin rosé. OK but unexceptional rosé. 2/5
- Mas de Jon – 2008 Pic Saint Loup rosé. Good for a walk back to the car (no I wasn’t driving!). 2/5
All in all, from what I remember of it (thank goodness I took notes!), it was an incredible experience – hopefully to be repeated! Now I can proudly wear my chapeau de paille proudly in the rainy Parisian streets thinking of sun and vines in the beautiful countryside in Pic Saint Loup.
Gratuitous pitch
Suggested bed and breakfast: Mas Julien, Braggassargues (about 5 km N of Quissac, 1h from Montpellier, 30 min from Nîmes). Ask for Daniel at +33 (4) 66 77 30 01. http://www.gites-chambres-gard.fr/mas-jul.html